Cenizo Journal Fall 2017 | Page 25

tive encouraged the Park to partner with the Big Bend Conservancy to build a $1.35 million facility, where the intricate and amazing history of the Big Bend could be seen, touched and understood by visitors. The open-air pavilion allows visitors to guide them- selves through the eras of life in this region, displaying examples of the creatures found here. During the Early Cretaceous, when Big Bend and most of Texas was under a warm, shallow sea, giants swam the waters. The oldest mosasaur, an air-breathing marine lizard, ever discovered in North America was found in Big Bend. These enormous predators could reach lengths of over 40 feet and gave birth to live young.There were fish- es, turtles, ammonites, giant snails. There was Inoceramus, a giant clam whose shells have been measured up to three feet across. There was Xiphactinus, a giant fish that grew up to 18 feet long, who occasionally snacked on mosasaurs. When the Big Bend was a tropical coast in the Late Cretaceous, dinosaurs, marine creatures, giant primitive alli- gators and even small mam- mals inhabited the land all at the same time. Deinosuchus was discovered in 1940, before the National Park was estab- lished. It was an early alliga- toroid that could reach lengths of 35 feet, and its enormous skull is on display in the new fossil exhibit. From the same period, a “paleo-forest” of pet- rified tree stumps can be seen in the park, still planted in the ground with roots exposed. The 18 tropical evergreens, from two species, helped sci- entists determine the height of the forest canopy. The stumps have a maximum diameter of over four feet, giving an aver- age calculated height of 130 to 160 feet. By 72 million years ago, the creation of the Rocky Mountains had lifted the Big Bend well above sea level. The coast had retreated sever- al hundred miles to the east, and the region had become an inland floodplain, with broad valleys and wide, slow- flowing rivers whose silt pre- served the remains of dinosaurs, reptiles, and mam- mals. This was the era of Tyrannosaurus Rex, of herds of duck-billed hadrosaurs, and of Quetzalcoatlus, the largest flying creature ever discov- ered. With a wingspan of some 40 feet, its discovery in 1971 by a UT Austin gradu- ate student working at Big Bend was a major find. A replica of the massive avian dinosaur hangs overhead in the central classroom of the fossil exhibit. Of huge signifi- cance, the Park’s geologic record preserves one of the most important events in earth history, the K-Pg event, which bridged the extinction of the dinosaurs. It is sup- posed that a meteor impact not far south of the Big Bend, on the coast of Mexico, caused sufficient climate change to bring about not only the dinosaurs’ extinction, but that of the majority of species on earth. The impact is dated to have occurred 65.5 million years ago, and the Javelina Formation in the Park tells a detailed story of the mass extinction in its mul- ticolored strata. By 63 million years ago, the dinosaurs were all gone. Mammals diversified widely, and many species of ancient mammals have been found in the Park, including mam- moths, hippo-like animals, saber-toothed tigers and pri- mates. Volcanic activity dur- ing this time formed the Chisos Basin, and intrusions of magma into surrounding limestone, which slowly erod- ed away over time, formed the unique geologic landscape of the Big Bend. As the climate cooled, grasslands spread and ice age animals made their way south to West Texas, though the region was never itself covered in ice. From 55 million years ago to a mere 10,000 years ago, the Big Bend has preserved one of the most complete fossil records in the world. When the fossil exhibit had its grand opening on January 14 of 2017, visitors from all over, including scores of schoolchildren, were able to see this incredible march of time laid out in the exhibits. Replicas of fossils from every era are on display in the sleek, unassuming building, which was designed to blend in with the surrounding landscape and weather over time. Its location, at mile marker nine about 20 miles from the park entrance on highway 385, allows visitors to see and access some of the sites where these fossils were found. Bones from Alamosaurus, one of the largest dinosaurs ever discovered, are on display. It is supposed that these giants might have weighed as much as 65,000 pounds. Bravoceratops, a horned her- bivore discovered in the park, is prominently featured. And Quetzalcoatlus hovers over- head, its massive wingspan set diagonally across the ceiling so it can fit under the roof. When I think back to my childhood ambitions to be a paleontologist, I understand now that what I really wanted was to understand, in some small measure, where we modern creatures came from. We can’t really get a grasp on how the world was shaped and formed and filled with the life it holds today without really seeing what came before. We certainly can’t get a sense of where we might be headed without a deeper understand- ing of the past. But what thrilled me as a child, and what thrills my children now, is the more compelling feeling that the key to all the secrets might be just under our feet, waiting to be discovered and assembled. I often feel fortu- nate to live in the Big Bend, but never more so than now, when it is so easy to give reign to those feelings of discovery around the corner. 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