Cenizo Journal Fall 2012 | Page 18

Soaring above Marfa ~ Pterosaurs Did It Eons Ago, Glider Pilots Still Do! Story by Barbara Novovitch Photography by Rebecca Culmer J acob Elledge needs neither a motor to fly nor any gas beyond that which he buys for the towplane that pulls him into the sky on weekends from Marfa Municipal Airport, then sets him free to negotiate the cauliflower-shaped cumulus clouds creating the thermal uplift for which Marfa is internationally famous. Read correctly, that solar energy combined with wave lift from mountains to the east, south and west of the Marfa Plateau allows humans in long-winged, light- weight gliders to do what pterosaurs – prehistoric flying reptiles – did millions of years ago. Elledge calls soaring “the purest form of flying,” and indeed soaring has made Marfa as much a “brand” for glider flying as Donald Judd has made it a “brand” in the art world. The town’s small size – population about 2,000 – and its relative isolation in Far West Texas, where ranching remains the main industry and overflights from com- mercial motorized aircraft are rare, contribute to the town’s popularity as a mecca for soaring. The mountains surrounding Marfa help to generate the exceptional soaring conditions. At 5,000 feet above sea level, the Marfa Plateau is relatively flat, but the mountains nearby – the Davis Mountains to the north, the Glass Mountains to the east and the Chisos Mountains to the south, in Big Bend National Park – are more than 7,000 feet, and they generate thermals and wave lift year-round. Next to the glider hangar, a National Landmark of Soaring plaque states in part: “Above the scenic moun- tains surrounding the Marfa Plateau, an abundance of atmospheric energy attracts gliding enthusiasts from around the world. Since 1960, sailplane pilots have uti- lized convective thermal updrafts, the ‘Marfa Dry Line’ and wave lift for record-setting soaring flights, five US National Soaring Contests (1967, 1969, 1972, 1991, 2006) and the first World Soaring Competition (1970) 18 Master Flight Instructor Burt Compton and his student Jacob Elledge, landing the ASK-21 sailplane at the Marfa airport. flown in the United States....” The Marfa Dry Line – a term known to soaring enthusiasts and weather specialists – separates the Gulf of Mexico’s moist air 600 miles to the east and the dry air of southwestern U.S. deserts and the deserts of northwestern Mexico. The strong updraft thermals are usually generated early in the day, and they can form a convective cloud “street” that extends even into the Midwestern states of Kansas and Nebraska. . . . the towplane . . . sets him free to negotiate the cauliflower-shaped cumulus clouds creating the thermal uplift for which Marfa is internationally famous. The soaring potential of this “dry line cloud street” from Marfa was first explored by glider pilots in 1960 after a national soaring contest was held in Odessa, 178 miles to the northeast. By 1969 Marfa was so well known that more than 80 glider pilots entered the U.S. National Soaring Contest held there, and by 1970 it hosted the World Soaring Championships, the first ever held in the United States, at the Army airfield near where Cal Rodgers landed his Vin Fiz in 1911 on the first transcontinental flight in the country. That airport was returned to nature in 1973, and the airport that opened in 1955 3 miles north of Marfa on Hwy. 17 is now Marfa Municipal Airport, where Burt Compton’s Marfa Gliders hosts the annual Texas Glider Rally held each spring. Soaring enthusiast Elledge lives in Alpine but works in Marfa as manager of the NAPA auto parts store. In a Cenizo Fourth Quarter 2012 mid-summer interview he said he had always planned to take flying lessons – his grandfather and uncle both flew planes – “But then I saw the gliders and thought... ‘this is cool.’” He finds soaring more challenging and fun than fly- ing in motor-driven planes. “There’s a little bit of false perception that you have safety in front of you... called an engine. In a glider there’s not, so you have to be more aware of what you’re doing, all the time. If you come in a little low in an airplane you give it a little throttle; in a glider, you’re gonna land.” His teacher, Burt Compton, moved to Marfa from Florida in 2001 with his wife Kathie in search of “a drier climate and a clear sky in a quiet region of Texas.” Burt said he soars almost every day, either as a teacher or sim- ply to indulge his passion. Unlike many people who talk in dour, grumpy tones about being exhausted from a day’s work, he says he’s never happier than when he comes back home “mental- ly drained” from a day spent reading the clouds and air currents to figure out how best to fly above the moun- tains, plains and occasional towns of West Texas. “I love teaching and explaining the mysteries of the invisible ocean of air that makes soaring flight possible,” Compton explained, “especially in the exceptionally strong thermal updrafts we find year-round above the Big Bend.” The master pilot – he was selected as FAA flight instructor of the year in 2007 and 2009 – has, in fact, been reading clouds longer than he’s been reading books. He figures he was flying before he was born, since his mother, also a pilot, was flying herself or as a passen- ger with his father at the wheel in Florida. Burt was born in Miami in 1951. His dad – Capt. F.B. “Fritz” Compton, former Soaring Society of America director and pilot of a World Soaring Championship team – had established