Views of the Chisos and Dead Horse Mountains frame Hannold Draw . Pens with hitching posts cloaked in creosote . An occasional harmony of birds chirping , reminding me there is life here .

Although not the prettiest backcountry campsite in the park , of the ten available for horse camping at Big Bend , Hannold Draw is the only one boasting horse corrals . With no official trailhead nearby and sunset approaching , we attempted to ride the draw .

Choked by sotol , greasewood and prickly pear , with rocks just big enough to trip over , we quickly diverted to a higher route . Climbing through the desert pavement to a height that breathes .

In the Big Bend of Texas when the sun goes down you must look east . Reflections of the west cast watercolor across the valley . Mountains turn purple with shades of orange , trapping you in their gaze .

As dusk settles back at camp , a haziness moves in and I watch my horse . Noting his ears as they swivel , ever alert to wildlife and threat .

One by one the stars appear and the Milky Way threads itself between . Smell of creosote hanging in the air . The braiding together of bodies where once were two . I relish what is not mine .

After a fitful night , I rise before the sun for an early start . Horse fed , coffee made , my dog Kona lies with head hanging off the bed watching . Waiting for belly rubs no doubt .

Riding the Chimneys Trail , purple and green prickly pear surround . Not a spineless one among them . Ocotillo standing tall like leafless finger oaks of the desert .

The figure eight of a sleeping rattlesnake , dodged in the nick of time . Suddenly that coffee I didn ’ t finish this morning kicks in and I am reminded to stay in the moment at hand .

At just under five miles round trip , the Chimneys trail is one of the easiest in Big Bend National Park . Leading to a series of rock formations with petroglyphs . West Texas , including Big Bend , is said to have more native rock art than anywhere else in the Americas – yet this remains a language we have yet to fully interpret .

On the return trip , I ride now with sleeves rolled up - the sun on my face . Head tilted high , removing my hat I let the wind move through my hair , now damp with sweat . At peace in this moment . Letting go of the need to control . Riding with my legs long .

And suddenly I realize … I sleep now without covers . Vulnerable and comfortable at the same time , and I love it .

To find out more about horseback riding Big Bend National Park : https :// www . nps . gov / bibe / planyourvisit / bc _ horses . htm