Rounding a corner, a rest area with three teepees appears just before the steep climb up “Big Hill”
Marfa, riders may look right to observe
famed artist Donald Judd’s “15
Untitled Works in Concrete.” To the
unappreciative eye these bold works of
art might resemble an unfinished
storm water project. Rarely are south-
bound vehicles required to stop at the
Border Patrol Station on this highway.
Further south, Cibolo Creek Ranch, a
luxury resort, lies off to the west. We
often take time to stop at the historical
marker to enjoy the vast prairie. Of
more interest to passersby might be the
sighting of Alpacas, or a handful of the
Texas Camel Corp, if they are not out
touring and teaching with Doug
Baum. Forty miles south of Marfa, rid-
ers will slow for the historic silver min-
ing town of Shafter. While not quite a
ghost town, Shafter is but a shadow of
its former self.
Presidio is our frequent stop for
lunch or a snack. There are several
good places to eat. Riders so inclined
and carrying a passport may take a
detour across the border to Ojinaga,
Chihuahua, Mexico. Presidio is also
where US 67 meets Texas FM 170, El
Camino Del Rio, the River Road. The
50-mile stretch from Presidio to Lajitas
has been labeled by National Geographic
as among the top-ten motorcycle roads
in the United States. This ride will
show you why.
Just a couple of miles from Presidio
is Fort Leaton State Historic Site. The
location of Fort Leaton was historical-
ly significant as early as the 1600s, and
the current incarnation of the fort
dates to the mid-1800s. It now serves
as the western visitor center for Big
Bend Ranch State Park. It is worth the
time to stop and look around and buy
a Park Pass. About 16 miles from
Presidio is the settlement of Redford.
This once-vibrant farming community
fell on hard times when the informal
crossings to and from Mexico were dis-
allowed in 2002 following the attacks
of September 11, 2001. With access to
most of its farm workers denied, farm-
ing in this valley has dwindled to near
nothing.
From Redford eastward, motorcy-
cling fun really begins. The road is full
of twists and turns, uphills and down-
hills, and vast vistas as the road paral-
lels the Rio Grande. From several van-
tage points riders may see canoes or
rafts full of people enjoying this portion
of a wild and scenic river. Twenty
miles east of Redford the road climbs
steeply to the top of Big Hill, Santana
Mesa, the steepest paved road in
Texas. From the parking area at the
top of the hill hikers may follow a short
but well-worn path to overlook the Rio
Grande. This is the location of the
final river scenes from the 1985 movie
Fandango. This coming-of-age saga of
five recent college graduates is consid-
ered the first starring role for Kevin
Costner. At this high river overlook
people can still see the word “Dom”
inscribed in the rock.
allowed by the state to fall into disre-
pair, most of the buildings have been
demolished, but the outhouse has a
gorgeous view!
The resort of Lajitas is located just a
few miles east of Contrabando. What
is now the pro shop for the Blackjack
Crossing golf course was, until recent-
ly, the location of a general store which
is the oldest continuously operated
mercantile establishment west of the
Mississippi River. It was also the home
of Clay Henry, the world-famous, beer
drinking goat. The current store and
more-sober goat are now located at the
east edge of Lajitas, on the north side
of the road. From Lajitas it is a short
12 miles to the Terlingua Ghostown,
where riders often congregate on the
Porch at the Terlingua Trading
Company and Starlight Theater.
Other gathering places are the High
Sierra Bar and Grill at the Eldorado
Hotel, and La Kiva, a not-to-miss
semi-subterranean eating and drinking
establishment dating back to the
1970s.
And then we are back at the gas
pumps at Study Butte. Riders who
observed but didn’t stop at the many
temptations along the way may have
Nearing Presidio, some of the sharpest curves give backdrop to our motorcycles
Just downhill from Big Hill is a
Texas Highway rest area comprised of
three large concrete teepees. It is a wel-
come stop right next to the Rio
Grande. A few miles further on, riders
will pass what was the historic
Contrabando movie set. Since being
Cenizo
time to enjoy Boquillas Canyon, the
Basin, and the Ross Maxwell Scenic
Drive to Santa Elena Canyon in the
National Park, or a ride up to the
McDonald Observatory north of Fort
Davis, but for many the “ride around
the block” is enough for one day.
First Quarter 2017
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