Cenizo Journal Spring 2012 | Page 24

Bear? Where? by Charles Angell E arly morning on Thanksgiving Day last year I met my group, a family of four, for a guided hike in Big Bend National Park. It was a perfect day for outdoor activities: cool air, few clouds, light breeze, sunrise painting the sky and mountains pink. We were hiking into one of the many outer rim canyons in the Chisos Mountains. We began noticing many large piles of bright-orange scat on the trail, and, when asked what creature produced it, I could only assume bear. Soon we noticed multiple trees at trailside with claw marks and gashes in the trunks and broken limbs littering the ground around the oaks and madrones. These are unmistakable bear signs, yet each time I comment- ed on the presence of bear in the area the group insisted I was joking. Winding higher up the path, I spotted a tall slender tree just off-trail rocking side to side. I was certain it couldn’t be from the wind – no other trees were swaying. Sure enough, at the base of the tree was a black bear, probably 200 pounds. It slowly plodded in our direction with what looked like an open- mouthed grin on its face. We stood frozen; it seemed not to realize we were there. And when it got within 10 feet of us I stomped my foot and shouted “Shoo!” It abruptly stopped, looked at us, snorted and then disinterestedly turned around and shuffled away through the leaves. This clearly was the high- light of the trip for my group. Quick photos were taken and conversation for the next hour centered on all matters ursine. After reaching our hiking desti- nation, we took a short snack break and began our return to 24 Photo by by Bradford Barron Among the branches of a madrone high in the Chisos, a Texas black bear forages for berries, oblivious to its human observers. the trailhead. Upon reaching our previous encounter loca- tion, we were treated to anoth- er performance – this time with the bear high up in a madrone tree, climbing limb to limb and stripping off berry-laden branches to eat. We watched as it gracefully climbed around, sometimes deliberately grasp- ing the limbs and other times sliding its feet along, in a fash- ion almost human-like. Being able to observe this feeding behavior for such an extended period of time was fascinating. I had been unaware how dexterous the forepaws of bears were; it reminded me of a monkey or an ape. Rheinhold Messner, a world-class mountain climber, wrote a book on searching for the Abominable Snowman, or yeti. His theory was that people would confuse the rarely seen Himalayan bear with a humanoid; after witnessing this limber display, I would agree with him. Black bears were once abun- dant across the state of Texas, but as the settler and livestock populations increased the ani- mals were extirpated through hunting, trapping and loss of food sources. Bear meat was a tasty meal, their skins prized for clothing and the grease ren- dered from their fat highly val- ued for cooking, lubricating and lamp fuel. The Native Americans utilized them for similar purposes – and would oftentimes use the grease as a bonding agent for the pigments used in their pictographs. I have seen some Indian Cenizo Second Quarter 2012 rock art in this region of quadruped creatures that could be interpreted as bears, and their one-time prevalence in the Trans-Pecos is evidenced by place-names such as Oso Mountain and Oso Spring – oso being Spanish for bear. The last of the bears in Trans-Pecos Texas disappeared sometime in the early 1900s, but the found- ing of the state and national parks here and the granting of protected status to bears have helped increase their numbers, as the animals have slowly migrated back from Mexico into the Big Bend. The Big Bend now has the only con- firmed breeding population in Texas. Last summer I watched a huge bear, easily 400 pounds, lumber across the paved road leading to the Basin in the national park. I’m fairly certain of his weight, because he was every bit as large as the taxider- mied bear in the Museum of the Big Bend, which was recorded at 412 pounds. This big fella had a ragged pelt that appeared to be mange, but I later theorized it to be burnt fur patches from the fires in Mexico it was escaping. I later learned that bears regularly go through molts that can account for hair loss and discoloration and can also take on this appearance due to nutrition and health. We continued watching and filming our furry friend, but the day was growing long, so we decided to leave it alone with its meal of berries and acorns. Before we left, it dismounted the tree and stood upright on two legs, leaning back and bouncing up and down with its back against the tree-trunk; its slack-jawed facial expression left no doubt it had found the itch that needed scratching. There have been no known bear attacks in the history of Big Bend National Park, but it was curious to see this one had no fear of us. It seemed indif- ferent. I wondered if this was because it had grown up in the park and become accustomed to human presence, so I con- tacted park wildlife biologist Raymond Skiles for some information. He explained to me that some of the bears born and raised away from the park’s high-human-use areas can be averse to human pres- ence. He also mentioned that with the withering drought man and beast have been enduring, the bear might have been more focused on feeding at an opportune time, giving eating priority over any fear of