Cenizo Journal Spring 2012 | Page 10

TAMING THE HEALING WATERS: The History Of The Chinati Hot Springs by David Keller T he Chinati Hot Springs is not a place you just stumble on to. Tucked away in a rocky canyon some 40 miles southwest of Marfa, the tiny resort is one of the most remote – and hidden – destinations in the Big Bend. And yet, for more than a century, the little outback oasis has attracted a diverse array of people seeking health, camaraderie and relaxation. Human use of the hot springs actual- ly extends far back into prehistory. How far we don’t really know, but artifactual remains as well as local lore indicate a native presence that reaches back cen- turies. Historians have speculated that the first written account may have been as early as 1684, when the Mendoza- Lopez expedition passed by on its way to La Junta. But the first definitive mention of the springs was in 1885, when a state land inspector noted several families camped there “testing its medicinal virtues.” Although legend has long held that Annie Kingston bought the springs for her arthritic brother in 1896, land records indicate the property was not actually filed upon until almost two decades later. By then, however, Annie’s brother John Lee was already living at the hot springs and had been for some time. A field botanist who camped there in 1914 noted in her journal, “there are several camping parties below us, both white folks and Mexicans... There is a sick man down at the spring who stays here all the time with a Mexican boy to take care of him. His name is Mr. Lee.” Most accounts indicate John Lee had been a miner in the Klondike gold rush, but, stricken with arthritis, was no longer able to work. One of the Kingston’s ranch hands told Annie about the hot springs, which at the time were one of the only known treatments. When Lee first arrived at the springs is uncertain, but we know that in 1921, when he sub- mitted proof of occupancy to the state, the county clerk noted, “the said J. J. Lee is not able to work or scarcely walk. He bought the land on account of the spring and lives there... Mr. Lee has not 10 Photo by David Keller Photo courtesy of Pat Kingston Towler. been off of this land for a number of years.” The hot springs may have alleviated Lee’s condition, but did little to extend his life. He passed away in 1925, leaving the hot springs to Annie. At that time, the improvements consisted of little more than Lee’s one-room adobe house along with an adobe bathhouse and an outbuilding or two. But over the course of the next decade, Annie’s third son Bill built several cabins on the property to accommodate overnight guests, and in 1937 the hot springs opened as a com- mercial resort. Bill Kingston apparently operated the hot springs in its earliest days, and over the years it also served as a retreat for Kingston family members. But start- ing in the 1940s, the springs were run by Edith Rogers, who had ranched with her husband in the adjacent Sierra Vieja Mountains. Following his death, Edith leased the springs from Annie under the name Ruidosa Hot Springs. Charging only nominal rates for baths and overnight stays, it was a mar- ginal operation. Rogers began to supple- ment her income by selling naturally stained glassware. By sheer accident she learned that after being placed in circu- Cenizo Second Quarter 2012 The undated photograph on the left shows the three adobe cabins adjacent to the caretaker’s house, which are believed to have been built in the early to mid-1930s. The adobe cabin shown above, attached to the bathhouse, may be one of the original structures and is possibly where John Lee, the springs’ first know resident, lived. “These Springs are... pronounced by those who have tested it to be of equal merit to the Hot Springs of Arkansas. Several families are camped on the ground now, testing its medicinal virtues...” – William M. Baines’ Report to State Land Board 1885 lating hot springs water for several days, glassware turned an iridescent gold. For years Rogers took special orders, in addi- tion to selling her golden-tinged glass- ware at a tiny store adjacent to the house. The hot springs continued to be operated by lessees until around 1967, when Annie’s grandson Jack took over the operation, renamed the Kingston Hot Springs. Following his death in 1978, Annie’s granddaughter Bea and her husband Jack Paul took over. Initially hiring others to manage the springs, in 1984 they, along with Bill Kingston III and his wife Dot, moved out to run the resort. While Bill and Dot booked guests, Jack and Bea ran “Bea’s Place” – a tiny store where guests could buy beer, ice, toiletries and other basic necessities. Many fondly recall the years the Pauls and the Kingstons operated the hot springs, a time when there was always friendly conversation and plenty of good food and beer to go around. But in 1989, Dot passed away and Bill returned to Balmorhea. After Bea fell ill, the financial strain became too much for the Pauls, and they had no choice but to leave. With no one left in the family to run it, and with a lot of regret, the hot springs were put on the market. In 1990, New York minimalist artist Donald Judd, who already owned prop- erty in both Marfa and Pinto Canyon, purchased the hot springs. Well respect- ed in the art world, Judd’s intensely pri- vate nature and notoriously rigid aes- thetic didn’t always resonate with locals. After bulldozing several concrete block cabins, including Bea’s Place, he shut the