Cenizo Journal Spring 2010 | Page 24

continued from page 4 Daily & Monthly Rates Laundry & RV Wash Bay Clean Restrooms w/Showers Big Rig & Tent Sites, Pool & Playground Full Hookup w/Cable & WI-FI Internet 2401 N Hwy 118 Alpine, TX 432.837.1136 www.lostalaskanrv.com mexican and American Food Famous Beef & Chicken Fajitas • Ice Cream • Clean, Fast Service Rene & Maria Franco, Owners 513 O’Reilly Street • Downtown Presidio 432.229.4409 A magical oasis in the Chihuahuan Desert of Texas rustic lodging camping day use 432.229.4165 Off the Pinto Canyon Rd near Ruidosa chinatihotsprings.com with you at length. No charge. Some of the local citizenry aren’t as social as Doug, but when they come out of the desert to town, they make the time to come to the porch to reconnect with humanity. True desert dwellers tend to connect to nature more than they do to people, but everyone needs the human presence once in a while. And this is a place where one can come in contact with a gentler, more accommodating brand of human nature than generally found elsewhere. As Dr. Doug says, “You’d have to be a real sociopath not to get along with people here. We have a few of ’em (sociopaths), but we’re still nice to them, and they just don’t cause much trouble.” On a recent visit to the porch I met a woman named Luma who lives 30 miles off the nearest paved road. She showed me pictures of the home that she built by hand in the desert by lapping layers of calf-wire over one another and then covering the infrastructure with stucco and rocks. Her house is set against a natural rock wall and blends so cohe- sively with its environment that it’s barely noticeable as a human structure. This shy and sweet-voiced woman claims it’s quite comfortable, even though she has to chase rattlesnakes out every now and then. I think it takes a bit of crazy bravery to live like that, but as Gregg says, “There’s more intelligence and courage out here than any M ArfA S chool for E Arly l EArning A Montessori Preschool in Marfa providing 3-6 year-olds with an engaging, hands-on and nurturing educational environment. for more information please call 432.729.3066 or email rwrember@gmail.com 24 Cenizo Second Quarter 2010 place I’ve ever seen.” I would add humor, whimsy and tolerance to that list as well. Some tourists from Del Rio who’ve made this area their home away from home after numerous visits to the desert and the porch recently decided to go all-out Terlingua. While here, they gathered up a collec- tion of spray paints and made an art car out of their van, complete with rainbow stripes and “Viva Terlingua!” sprayed on the hood. Turns out that Terry Anderson, a well-known photographer and part-time Terlinguan, owns that exact same make, model and color of vehicle. Dave, who sometimes house-sits for Terry, insisted that they remove Terry’s vehi- cle from the carport and replace it with the gaudily painted alternative. And, of course, they immediately e- mailed photos to Terry. Still haven’t heard what Terry’s reaction was, but I will, no doubt, next time I visit the porch. And, as always, I’ll hear all manner of diverse discus- sions on a wide variety of eso- teric topics. A recent sampling of over- heard porch talk: “No, ‘Northeast Texas Women’ by Willis Alan Ramsey is the best Texas song ever writ- ten. I mean ‘cast iron curls?’ You can’t beat that.” Or – “Yeah, I liked the new presi- dent at first myself. But then I realized that Obama don’t dance and Obama don’t rock and roll!” Or – “I know it don’t make much sense, but roadrunner is the best eatin’ for a desert bird if you cook ’em right.” Or – “Wanna go drop some Roman candles down a mine shaft?” Or the oft-heard – “I feel better already. Thanks, Doc!” Author, photographer and longtime Terlinguan Blair Pittman blames the lack of good old-fashioned outdoor socialization in American urban and suburban culture on cen- tral air conditioning. According to Blair, air conditioning keeps people in their houses. They don’t get together outside any- more and practice the art of “visitin’” as they once did. The Terlingua Porch gives people a place to visit, to listen to music, to have a cold one and to engage with each other and nature at the same time. Viva that, indeed! Once, when I sat on the porch with several local fellows exchanging end-of-the-day thoughts and readying for the evening of good Texas music next door at the Starlight Theatre, I blurted the question, “What makes this spot so spe- cial?” Simultaneously, and without hesitation, all three raised their arms and pointed east to the color-draped Chisos Mountains and said, with rev- erence, “That.” In the moment, I couldn’t help thinking that these rugged, emphatically individual Terlinguans could just as accurately have pointed toward themselves. Live Music. Dancing. Outdoor Patio. Great Food. Gameroom. Jukeboxes. Free Popcorn. T Check out our Lunch Specials on padresmarfa.com T Mon - Fri 11:30 am to Midnight Sat 11:30 am to 1am T Kitchen Open Mon - Sat 11:30 am to 10:30 pm Free Popcorn during Happy Hours, 3 pm to 7 pm, Mon - Fri T 209 West El Paso, Marfa padresmarfa.com 432.729.4425