Cenizo Journal Spring 2010 | Page 22
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Photo by © TNC/Lynn McBride
Two large ponds, about the size of a couple of football fields, dominate the scene near preserve headquarters
INDEPEDENCE CREEk PRESERVE:
T HE H IDDEN O ASIS
d
by Kelly Fenstermaker
A
fter a stop in Balmor -
hea, a friend and I set
out for a drive through
some of the most desolate land
in West Texas. About three
hours later, the last part of
which involves missing a turn
on a long dirt road, we reach
our destination: Independence
Creek Preserve, owned and
operated by the Texas Nature
Conservancy. This 2,000-acre
piece of land once belonged to
the Oasis and Canyon Ranches
and was purchased from them
in 2001.
We drive through the gate
22
and surface a hill, and sudden-
ly, on the other side, a lush river
bed appears with a creek run-
ning through it. Stands of oak
shade the banks of this unex-
pected source of water.
Not too many people have
ever heard of Independence
Creek, let alone have any idea
where it is. One reason is prob-
ably its middle-of-nowhere
location. The closest towns are
Sheffield, 22 miles away, and
Dryden, 37 miles, both virtual
ghost towns. If you didn’t know
the creek was there, you’d
never guess. The vast land-
scape of desert scrub and bare
earth gives no hint. And who
would find reason to go there?
Yet, people have.
This part of the lower Pecos
River area was first occupied
about 12,000 years ago by
Archaic people who depended
on its constant supply of fresh
water. They left behind arti-
facts, and along the Pecos
River, large concentrations of
rock art. Later the Apaches
arrived. Eventually, they were
displaced in the 19th century
by cattle, sheep and goat ranch-
ers who were drawn to the rich
Cenizo
Second Quarter 2010
grass along the creek’s banks.
In the 50s, Charles Chand -
ler opened his ranch, adjacent
to the preserve, to guests, offer-
ing water sports, hunting, fish-
ing and even a nine-hole golf
course. For many years it was
one of the most popular recre-
ation areas in southwest Texas,
partially due to the fact that it
was the only entertainment
spot on the Pecos River.
A half mile from the pre-
serve’s entrance the road takes
us to headquarters, site of the
old Oasis Ranch. Two large
ponds, about the size of a cou-
ple of football fields, dominate
the scene. The guest house in
which we are staying with
friends is right near the bank.
The drive to get here had been
a long and parched one, but
this delicious sight of water,
trees and grass more than
makes up for it.
The back of the guest house
opens to a rock terrace and
beyond that, a lawn sloping
down to the water. In warm
weather that lovely clear water
would invite a plunge. It being
winter, I’m not tempted, but I
do wish for a canoe. A little