Cenizo Journal Fall 2018 | Page 13

privy out back. Downstairs in the saloon the cowboys could get a drink and a home-cooked meal prepared on a kerosene stove by the live-in proprietors. Two blocks down was the livery sta- ble. You know that once the horses had been tended to there would have been nothing that looked finer to those cow- boys than the Hotel Ritchey. It had a commercial district of South Front Street was spared, having been built out of adobe and the Hotel Ritchey, though partially built with wood, was also spared. One would certainly have been able to feel the heat of the north side flames from the front porch. Because the Hotel Ritchey building is south of the tracks and situated in an adobe-built Photo courtesy of archives of the Big Bend, Bryan W ildenthal Memorial Library, Sol Ross state University wide, two-story wraparound porch and all the comforts a cowboy could want. The Hotel Ritchey began as a four- room adobe structure built in 1886 or earlier, making it one of the very first buildings in Alpine, a town that had barely come into existence only three years earlier. A description of the town at the time mentioned “a dozen houses, three saloons, a hotel and rooming house, a livery stable, a butcher shop and a drugstore, which also housed the post office.”  The wooden additions to the Hotel Ritchey came quickly as commerce and the town grew with the railroad. Commercial buildings also began sprouting up on the north side of the tracks on North Front Street (now called Holland Avenue). These structures were most often built with wood, while struc- tures on the south side typically were built using the traditional method of adobe construction. Twice in the early 1900s fires took hold north of the tracks and wiped out the entire commercial district on North Front Street, as the wood structures suc- cumbed to fast-spreading, wind- whipped flames. The corresponding neighborhood, it has the distinction of being the oldest hotel, oldest saloon, and the oldest wood structure in Alpine. Incidentally, almost all of the oldest buildings in Alpine are south of the tracks. As the railroads made their way west and towns sprang up, hotels like the Ritchey would have been a common sight near the train stations of those towns. Basic amenities. Nothing fancy. Just a bed, a hot meal and a stiff drink. Later, as towns grew and self-made cat- tle barons and railroad barons began fre- quenting the little whistle stops along the railroad, classier hotels like The Paisano, The Holland, and The Gage were built with the help of great archi- tects and abounding resources, and for a while the baron hotels and the working- man hotels did well. But with the post- WWII mid-20th century boom, economies and needs changed. Motor courts became the new choice for travel- ers on a budget, and the country shifted from train travel to the automobile. The baron hotels had a tough time too, but at least they were considered to have architecturally redeeming qualities. The no-frills hotels like the Ritchey quickly fell into disrepair and most are now touch with the owner of the Hotel gone. Ritchey building and before I knew Though the Ritchey received Texas what hit me I owned it. If money for Historic designation in 1965, there were restoration projects was scarce in the no funds available for restoration and 1980s, it was completely nonexistent in repair. The owners at the time tried 2012. The world was still dazed and suf- appealing to the county, the state and fering from the recession and the the federal government but by the 1980s restoration of the Hotel Ritchey was it was looking like too much time had going to be a monumental task. I cer- passed, making the task more and more tainly didn’t have the kind of money this daunting. The porch fell off. Then the was going to take, but I had tools and a paint fell off. The roof was no longer skill set, so in earnest I began replacing keeping the elements out and plywood doors, window sashes and window- covered the windows and doors. For the panes. I put together a written proposal next 20 years it sat there on the corner of with the help of the Small Business 5th and Murphy, decaying. Vandals and Development Center. My friends helped thieves added their touches and the too, and Betty was a constant friend future was looking bleak.  At one point who offered pep talks when I became a demolition permit was applied for, doubtful. which would have been reasonable since So, for the next five years, I applied the place had become a hazard. But in for every loan or grant that I could find the early 2000s a new owner put a new and shamelessly put my proposal for the tin roof and a coat of paint on it, and Hotel Ritchey in front of anyone who that helped immensely to buy the old would listen. Finally, in the spring of building some time, though 10 more 2017 a friend put me in touch with years would pass before the next serious someone who put me in touch with an attempt would be made to revive it. investor willing to take a chance. After 2012. I had been living down on the that everything moved at twice the river in Ruidosa for the past three years, speed of light. A fantastic group of peo- having left Austin for so many reasons. ple came together to form a true dream In Austin I owned a design-build com- crew, and over the next 10 months we pany and we did a little bit of every- rode hard and slept on the trail putting thing, but the most fun we had was sav- that building together. We were able to ing old houses, usually ones about to be open for business on March 30th, 2018, torn down or that approximately 68 years had been otherwise after the doors closed forgotten or over- on the Hotel looked in the frenzy Ritchey.        that is the Austin real The Hotel Ritchey, estate market. Some 102 East Murphy we moved to new Street, Alpine, though locations because the only partially restored, land under them had is one of only a handful been sold; beautiful of railroad hotels still old farm houses or standing in Texas and little bungalows that the only one in the were in the way of Photo courtesy of Texas historical C ommission Trans-Pecos that is the new owner’s open to the public. plans. I was hooked. I loved old build- The hotel portion is still under con- ings and I loved saving them. So passing struction, but The Ritchey Wine through Alpine I couldn’t help but Saloon, Beer Garden and Cafe has been notice the building on the south side of meticulously and lovingly restored and the tracks just sitting there, patiently is open for business. Come for a visit waiting. and step back in time. In the six months It was not hard to find out who I since the Ritchey reopened it has needed to talk to if I was interested in become a local watering hole, social cen- taking my turn at trying to save it: Betty ter, music venue, and a great place to Gaddis Yndo. Betty had been working enjoy a homemade meal. Hours are for years on the revitalization of the old- Tuesday – Thursday, 5pm-10pm, Friday est commercial district in Alpine on and Saturday, 5pm-midnight, Sunday Murphy Street and it was starting to 5pm-10pm. For further information call show. Murphy Street was coming alive 432-244-7560 or visit us at www.hotel- again after decades of decline. Betty is a ritchey.com. force to be reckoned with. She put me in Cenizo Fourth Quarter 2018 13